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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.